Karaoluk Waterfall

December 30, 2014 By Justin Leonard

One sweltering hot day last summer I was looking for an excuse to escape my apartment and head for the mountains. Looking over my list of places to visit from the local tourism office I stumbled across the perfect adventure, Karaoluk (Çiseli) Waterfall. Not only was the waterfall not far, located in the County of Ordu, but it promised the refreshment that I needed. A cool mountain stream would be just what I needed to escape from the humidity of the city.

Typically, I don’t like using maps or GPS on these types of short excursions. I have found that it adds to the feeling of adventure when I feel a little lost. When, or if, I find where I want to go it only adds to the sense of accomplishment. However, before leave I will usually look up the location on Google Maps to set my bearings. To find the waterfall, I had only the name of the village and where to exit the highway. As what typically happens it didn’t take very long for me to get lost. The problem is that the mountain roads on google maps are not entirely accurate. After about 20 minutes of wondering around searching for a sign pointing towards the village, I very nearly gave up and cheated by using the GPS on my phone. Yes, I do bring my GPS even if I don’t intend to use it. At that moment, I found the sign and started my journey up the mountain on the one lane road.

One lane mountain roads can be worrisome while traveling by car. There is always the risk of a car coming from the other direction with nowhere to pass. On a motorcycle these encounters are less unnerving, other than hoping the other driver is paying attention so as to not run you over. The road continued on for much longer than I expected. Sometimes I forget that 10 km on a curvy mountain road, takes longer than 10 km on the highway. At last, I find a sign for the falls. Note I was looking for Karaoluk Waterfall, the sign was labelled as Çiseli Şelalesi (şelalesi = waterfall). Luckily I noticed that the falls had two different names. The falls are located just past the small village of a country mosque and a few family dwellings.

The pool at the bottom of Karaoluk Waterfall.

The falls were not disappointing. The mountain stream carves itself through a series of little rapids and deep pools. The water is clear and very inviting. The main falls are located about 200 meters downstream of the parking lot (which is also the end of the road). The waterfall is not particularly high, but the pool at the bottom of the falls is spectacular and beautiful. A perfect natural swimming hole, and deep enough for those brave enough to jump off the falls into the water. Even standing near the water, I could feel its coolness. Unfortunately I forgot to bring a swim suit. However, there was a perfect place for me to sit and dangle my feet in the pool. I sat enjoying the roar of the water over the rocks, and the beautiful green valley around me. Karaoluk Waterfall was the perfect adventure on a hot summer day.

Directions: Exit from the Fatsa / Ordu highway directly located at the mouth of the Nefise Akçelik Tunnel (Ordu side) and follow the signs to the Village of Kirli. From the Village of Kirli you will turn up hill towards the road that runs above the entrance to the tunnel. Turning left, follow the signs to the Village of Karaoluk. There are signs to the falls in the village.

Boztepe

December 8, 2014 By Justin Leonard

One of the most iconic tourist destinations in Ordu is Boztepe. The city of Ordu rests against the eastern slope of the mountain Boztepe, and from the summit visitors are treated to spectacular views of both the Black Sea and the entire city of Ordu. In comparison to other mountains in Ordu, Boztepe at only 450 meters, or 1440 feet, above sea level is not particularly high. However, its proximity to both the city and sea make it perfect for spot for visitors to take in all of Ordu’s natural beauty and for locals to escape from the city to rest and picnic.

In 2011, the City of Ordu constructed a cable car between the city and the top of Boztepe. The 8 person cable car gives the feeling of flying as you skirt just over the rooftops of historic ottoman houses and minarets. While making the assent up the mountain the scenery quickly changes from city to green hazelnut farms. At times you can watch farmers, some elderly women, tend their farms while being careful not to tumble down the very steep slopes. The higher the car climbs the more incredible the views become. On clear days you can even see the snow-capped mountains to the south. The entire trip is 2350 meters (1.5 miles) and takes less than 10 minutes. Once you reach the top there is plenty to do.

Enjoy some local food at the restaurants.

Boztepe is becoming more and more of a popular tourist destination. As a result new facilities are continually being built and in the next year a hotel will be finished next to the cable car station. A number of restaurants, souvenir stands, tea gardens, and picnic places are also available. Those who are ready for a “real” adventure can sign up to jump off the mountain with one of the many paragliders. Hopefully the wind will be just right and you’ll end up on the beach and not somewhere out at sea.

Riding the cable car is definitely recommended. However during the summer months, buses of tourists often create long lines and you could wait hours to get your turn to ride. The good news is that the cable car is not the only way to the top. The ride to the top is nearly just as exciting as the cable car, especially if you’re on two wheels. Other benefit for taking a motorcycle is that you won’t have any trouble at the top finding a place to park.

There are two routes to the top of Boztepe. Both start and end at the same place, but they offer different experiences. One road starts near the stadium and winds its way around the side and backside of the mountain. It is very well maintained with decent asphalt. Typically tour buses and shuttles use this route because it is not too steep. The other route, starting from the historic Taşbaşı church, is possibly the most direct to the top. More or less it winds directly up the face of the mountain. This one lane road is old and mostly paved with large stones or paving blocks. The curves are sharp and there are several areas where the road is much steeper than 10% grade. The road is more challenging especially when you meet a car coming from the other direction. The views though are worth the extra challenge. I suggest riding on both. I have found riding up the old route and down the newer road allows for more spirited riding. The new road starts from the stadium, and the old road from the Taşbaşı church.

Whether you park at the bottom and take the cable car or beat the crowds by riding up the mountain on your motorcycle, Boztepe is definitely a recommended adventure during your stay in Ordu.

A straight section of the older more direct route.

Cotyora

December 3, 2014 By Justin Leonard

I was talking to a local the other day about all the places that I had visited in Ordu, and I mentioned some of my favourite places, some of which only a couple of miles from the city. I was shocked to learn that not only had he not been to them, but he had no idea that they even existed. Instead of judging him for this lack of knowledge about the place he had lived his entire life, I sympathized with him as I too have been guilty of the same naiveté.

In almost every place I have ever lived, I rarely visited or explored the local places of interest. Why? Well there is always the excuse that I just didn’t have the time. Life is full. There’s work, family, friends, volunteering, studying, etc. It all comes down priorities. We make space for the things that are important, and we put the less important things on a shelf for another day. It’s wise and commendable that one manages their time wisely, and honestly going out on an adventure is probably not high on anyone’s list of day to day tasks. Unfortunately the things we put on the shelf are forgotten, sometimes even the shelf itself is forgotten.

For me, I have a desire and longing for something new, a little adventure. I am thankful that in this season of life I have an opportunity to pursue this interest of mine a little more than I have in the past. That being said, I do also enjoy an occasional “mini” adventures during the busier times. They give me energy for other less exciting things, and remind me life is not all about collecting the next pay check. Adventure Ordu will highlight some of these “mini-adventures” that you can have while visiting Ordu.

Cotyora is one of the mini-adventures or lesser known points of interest in Ordu. In fact, most people will pass by without even noticing. One of the main reasons is that the location is hidden by the coastal highway, and it is only accessible from traffic leaving Ordu towards Samsun. It is not well marked. Only a little brown sign pointing down a steep brick road towards the sea points the way. After about a 100 meters, there is a parking lot and a small trail leading to the ruins.

Cotyora is one of the original names for the province of Ordu, and the archaeological site was given the name. However, locals also know the site as Bozukkale or broken tower. That is exactly what you will find. A broken tower with only a section of the stone wall remaining. The stone wall is said to be from around the 11^th century during Byzantine reign. Other than the ruins there is a small lighthouse and some beautiful rock outcroppings. It is a peaceful location and I provides some great views of the coastline and the city.

Those looking for something a little different with a little history and some beautiful scenery it’s worth stopping by.

Kurul Kalesi

November 26, 2014 By Justin Leonard

The City of Ordu is surround by mountains. Locals and tourists can take advantage of any number of them to take beautiful views of the city and the Black Sea. On the top of one of these mountains rests the 2300 year old ruins of an old temple and fortress thought to be part of the Kingdom of Pontus. I first noticed this fortress sitting on top of a rock cliff raising above the Ordu skyline. Later when I learned that there was an archaeological site on top I was determined to check it out.

The fortress is named Kurul Kalesi, or Council Fortress, and it’s located close to the city only about 13 km (8 mi) from the city center. The fortress is actually in the Village of Bayadı although I never did see the village when I visited. Getting to the fortress is another adventure as the route is not very well marked, however there are a couple of signs, and I didn’t get lost. I did think I was lost a couple of times, because the quality of the road was not what I would expect for touristic destination. The last couple of miles were dirt and loose gravel, not so great for motorcycles with road tires. The only real obstacle was the dogs. I think I came across about 5 dogs, all of which wanted to attack me for violating their space. I HATE dogs that chase after me on my motorcycle barking and nipping at my tires. I can only picture them getting stuck under my tires, causing me to crash, and then deciding to finish me off.

View of the City of Ordu from Kurul Kalesi.

I remember what I learned in my motorcycle safety training…Don’t panic and power away, because a motorcycle is way faster than a dog. Well that’s not always true. Not only are these Ordu dogs fast, but they are determined. Seriously I was chased by one of these dogs for over one mile up a hill. It was only after the dog tired out that I won the chase, but not because I certainly was able to power away. I have to admit that I was panicking. On the way back I decided I would try to sneak by the dog by cutting off my motor and maybe he wouldn’t hear me coming. I underestimated how well a dog can hear…and it didn’t work out so well.

Parking my bike at the entrance of Kurul Kalesi park.

After surviving packs of wild dogs, I reached the entrance to the park. The park is surrounded by hazelnut trees and a chicken farm. The entrance of the park is controlled with a fence and a guard house, but nobody was there. Maybe it was because it was a weekday. Once past the gate, which was open, I rode up a steep dirt road towards what I hoped to be a parking area. The road ended at the base of a staircase with no place to park, for a car anyway. Not a problem for me.

It was clear that not very many people come and visit the fortress, at least not recently. The path was a little overgrown, but it had nice lampposts indicating that some effort was made to make it accessible to tourists. I failed to mention something that could hint why there were not many visitors. All around the park were big signs saying, “Do not enter the archeologic dig!” (in Turkish of course). Well, since the gate was open, and there wasn’t anyone to tell me to leave, I interpreted the sign to mean literally do not enter the “dig site” or excavation. It didn’t say don’t enter the property or park. I never saw anyone, so we’ll never know.

Walls of the fortress. The actual dig site?

The fortress is one of my favourite places I have visited in Ordu so far. The ruins were in great condition considering they are 2,300 years old and exposed to the elements on top of a cliff. I could almost picture how things could have been arranged back then. The ruins consist of some stone walls, which are being unearthed or excavated (note I did not enter the excavation), a cistern carved into the floor of the rock, and a steep escape tunnel as is common with these type of mountaintop fortresses. I was very impressed and wondered why the site was not promoted more.

Looking towards the top of Kurul Kalesi.

Equal to the quality of the ruins was the view. It was clear why the site was chosen for a fortress, because I could see for miles in all directions. It would be impossible for an army to sneak up to the fortress without being noticed. The views of the city nestled against the sea and the lush green valleys to the south were spectacular and well worth the adventure. I am thankful for the opportunity to experience both history and nature at the same time.

Adventure Ordu

Discovering Ordu's Hidden Treasures

Karaoluk Waterfall

Boztepe

Cotyora

Kurul Kalesi

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